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the Hope diamond
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Find it at Howard's

The history of the
stone
which was eventually named
the Hope diamond began when
the French merchant
traveler, Jean Baptiste
Tavernier, purchased a 112
3/16-carat diamond. This
diamond, which was most
likely from the Kollur mine
in Golconda, India, was
somewhat triangular in shape
and crudely cut. Its color
was described by Tavernier
as a "beautiful violet."
Tavernier
sold the diamond to King
Louis XIV of France in 1668
with 14 other large diamonds
and several smaller ones. In
1673 the stone was recut by
Sieur Pitau, the court
jeweler, resulting in a 67
1/8-carat stone. In the
royal inventories, its color
was described as an intense
steely-blue and the stone
became known as the "Blue
Diamond of the Crown," or
the "French Blue." It was
set in gold and suspended on
a neck ribbon which the king
wore on ceremonial
occasions.
King Louis
XV, in 1749, had the stone
reset by court jeweler Andre
Jacquemin, in a piece of
ceremonial jewelry for the
Order of the Golden Fleece (Toison
D'Or). In 1791, after an
attempt by Louis XVI and
Marie Antoinette to flee
France, the jewels of the
French Royal Treasury were
turned over to the
government. During a
week-long looting of the
crown jewels in September of
1792, the French Blue
diamond was stolen.

In 1812 a
deep blue diamond described
by John Francillion as
weighing 177 grains (4
grains = 1 carat) was
documented as being in the
possession of London diamond
merchant, Daniel Eliason.
Strong evidence indicates
that the stone was the recut
French Blue and the same
stone known today as the
Hope Diamond. Several
references suggest that it
was acquired by King George
IV of England. At his death,
in 1830, the king's debts
were so enormous that the
blue diamond was likely sold
through private channels.
The first
reference to the diamond's
next owner is found in the
1839 entry of the gem
collection catalog of the
well-known Henry Philip
Hope, the man from whom the
diamond takes its name.
Unfortunately, the catalog
does not reveal where or
from whom Hope acquired the
diamond or how much he paid
for it.
Following
the death of Henry Philip
Hope in 1839, and after much
litigation, the diamond
passed to his nephew Henry
Thomas Hope and ultimately
to the nephew's grandson
Lord Francis Hope. In 1901
Lord Francis Hope obtained
permission from the Court of
Chancery and his sisters to
sell the stone to help pay
off his debts. It was sold
to a London dealer who
quickly sold it to Joseph
Frankels and Sons of New
York City, who retained the
stone in New York until
they, in turn, needed cash.
The diamond was next sold to
Selim Habib who put it up
for auction in Paris in
1909. It did not sell at the
auction but was sold soon
after to C.H. Rosenau and
then resold to Pierre
Cartier that same year.
In 1910
the Hope diamond was shown
to Mrs. Evalyn Walsh McLean,
of Washington D.C., at
Cartier's in Paris, but she
did not like the setting.
Cartier had the diamond
reset and took it to the
U.S. where he left it with
Mrs. McLean for a weekend.
This strategy was
successful. The sale was
made in 1911 with the
diamond mounted as a
headpiece on a three-tiered
circlet of large white
diamonds. Sometime later it
became the pendant on a
diamond necklace as we know
it today. Mrs. McLean's
flamboyant ownership of the
stone lasted until her death
in 1947.
Harry Winston Inc. of New
York City purchased Mrs.
McLean's entire jewelry
collection, including the
Hope diamond, from her
estate in 1949. This
collection also included the
94.8-carat Star of the East
diamond, the 15-carat Star
of the South diamond, a
9-carat green diamond, and a
31-carat diamond which is
now called the McLean
diamond.
For the
next 10 years the Hope
diamond was shown at many
exhibits and charitable
events world wide by Harry
Winston Inc., including as
the central attraction of
their Court of Jewels
exhibition. On November 10,
1958, they donated the Hope
diamond to the Smithsonian
Institution, and almost
immediately the great blue
stone became its premier
attraction.
The Hope
diamond has left the
Smithsonian only four times
since it was donated. In
1962 it was exhibited for a
month at the Louvre in
Paris, France, as part of an
exhibit entitled Ten
Centuries of French Jewelry.
In 1965 the Hope diamond
traveled to South Africa
where it was exhibited at
the Rand Easter Show in
Johannesburg. In 1984 the
diamond was lent to Harry
Winston Inc., in New York,
as part of the firm's 50th
anniversary celebration. In
1996 the Hope diamond was
again sent to Harry Winston
Inc., in New York, this time
for cleaning and some minor
restoration work.
The weight
of the Hope diamond for many
years was reported to be
44.5 carats. In 1974 it was
removed from its setting and
found actually to weigh
45.52 carats. It is
classified as a type IIb
diamond, which are
semi-conductive and usually
phosphoresce. The Hope
diamond phosphoresces a
strong red color, which will
last for several seconds
after exposure to short wave
ultra-violet light. The
diamond's blue coloration is
attributed to trace amounts
of boron in the stone.
In the
pendant surrounding the Hope
diamond are 16 white
diamonds, both pear-shapes
and cushion cuts. A bail is
soldered to the pendant
where Mrs. McLean would
often attach other diamonds
including the McLean diamond
and the Star of the East.
The necklace chain contains
45 white diamonds
In December of 1988, a team
from the Gemological
Institute of America visited
the Smithsonian to grade the
great blue stone using
present day techniques. They
observed that the gem shows
evidence of wear, has a
remarkably strong
phosphorescence, and that
its clarity is slightly
affected by a whitish
graining which is common to
blue diamonds. They
described the color as a
fancy dark grayish-blue. An
examination on the same day
by another gemologist using
a very sensitive colorimeter
revealed that there is a
very slight violet component
to the deep blue color which
is imperceptible to the
naked eye. Still, one can
only wonder that the
original 112 3/16-carat
stone bought by Tavernier
was described as "un beau
violet" (a beautiful
violet).
SUGGESTED READING
-
Balfour, I. (1997)
Famous Diamonds.
Christie, Manson and
Woods, Ltd., London.
-
Carlyle, T. (1900)
The French
Revolution. 2
vol. Reprinted by
Arden Library,
Darby, PA.
-
Crowningshield, R.
(1989) Grading
the Hope Diamond.Gem
& Gemology,
vol. 25, no. 2.
-
Fowler, Marian.
(2002) Hope:
Adventures of a
Diamond. NY:
Ballantine Books.
-
Gates, H.L. (1921)
The Mystery of
the Hope Diamond.
International
Copywrite Bureau,
N.Y.
-
Krashes, L. (1988)
Harry Winston,
The Ultimate Jeweler,
3rd ed. Harry
Winston Inc., N.Y.,
& Gemological
Institute of
America, Santa
Monica, CA.
-
McLean, E.W., &
Sparkes, B. (1936)
Father Struck it
Rich. Reprinted
by Arno Press, N.Y.
-
Mitford, N. (1966)
The Sun King.
Harper and Row, N.Y.
-
Patch, S.S. (1999)
Blue Mystery:
The Story of the
Hope Diamond.
Harry Abrams, NY.
-
Post, J.E. (1997)
The National Gem
Collection.
Harry Abrams, NY.
-
Twinning, E. F.&
Twinning B. (1960)
History of the
Crown Jewels of
Europe. B.T.
Batsford, London.
-
Winters, M.T., &
White, J.S.(1991)
George IV's Blue
Diamond.
Lapidary Journal,
vol. 45, nos. 9 &
10.
HOPE DIAMOND DATA
|
WEIGHT: |
45.52 carats
|
|
DIMENSIONS: |
Length 25.60 mm
Width 21.78 mm
Depth 12.00 mm
|
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CUT:
|
Cushion antique
brilliant with a
faceted girdle
and extra facets
on the pavilion.
|
|
CLARITY:
|
VS1. Whitish
graining is
present.
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|
COLOR:
|
Fancy dark
grayish-blue
|
Prepared
by the
Department of Mineral
Sciences,
National Museum of Natural
History, in cooperation with
the Public Inquiry Mail
Service, Smithsonian
Institution
Video Prepared By: Google
videos and Archive Films 16 sec - Jan 1, 2003
www.archivefilms.com
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