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Diamond-Cut
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Diamond Buying Guide
l Diamond Definitions
l
Diamond
Cut Language
Gem dealers, diamond
manufacturers and retailers
are looking into on of the
last frontiers in diamonds -
the "fourth C": cut, which
affects brilliance the most.
The roles that color,
clarity and carat weight
play in diamond value are
generally understood. The
same cannot be said for
diamond cut. The American
Gem society Laboratory took
the lead in including a cut
grade on its diamond reports
when it opened in 1995. Now
the Gemological Institute of
America has undertaken a
major study of diamond cut.
Some other labs around the
world also have turned their
full attention to the
importance of cut.
What's all the fuss about
cut? A diamond's cut - or
"make", as some in the trade
call it - transcends the
other "Cs" because of the
way it directs light through
the diamond. Even a big
diamond or one with good
color can look lifeless if
light enters and then leaks
out because of poor cut.
Customers can notice the
difference, though they may
not know what the difference
is.
Here are some terms you will
hear in the months ahead as
attention to cut intensifies
and attempts to "quantify"
cut characteristics are
developed.
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Quantity of light,
or brilliance
returned to the
viewer.
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Light
Return/Brilliance
The amount of light
returned to the eye,
or brilliance,
depends on how well
the diamond in
question reflects
and refracts light.
This includes
dispersed
wavelengths, which
are reflected from
the internal
surfaces of a
diamond and returned
to
the eye.
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Flashes of color, or
dispersion.
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Dispersion
Dispersion is the
occasional flash of
color, or fire,
particularly when
viewing a diamond in
strong, direct
light.
Gemolociacally,
dispersion is the
separation of white
light into spectral
colors, each of
which vibrates at a
different frequency.
Dispersion flashes
may be seen as any
color. |
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Facet
reflection on a
diamond.
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Light Reflection
The return of light
when it strikes a
polished surface is
called "reflection".
About 17% of the
light striking the
external surface of
a polished diamond
vertically is
reflected back into
the air; the greater
part enters the
stone. |
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Flashes of light, or
scintillation, in a
diamond.
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Scintillation
This refers to the
flashes of light, or
the sparkle, you see
when a diamond is
moved in the light.
Scintillation is
best when the
clarity
characteristics of
the diamond are
purest. Proper
cutting angles and
polish of the
diamond also
contribute to the
diamond sparkle.
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This
diamond's table
facets
has a brighter
luster...
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Luster
Luster is the
perceived reflection
and surface
appearance of a
polished diamond in
reflected light.
Generally speaking,
the higher the
refractive index of
the gem, the higher
its luster. For
example, pearls and
amber have lower
luster and
refractive indexes
than diamonds and
rubies. |
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...
than this aquamarine
gem.
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Metallic
Luster is described
as metallic (the
highest luster),
adamantine (used
specifically for
diamonds), sub
adamantine (which
refers to such gems
as rubies),
vitreous, sub
vitreous, resinous
(which refers to
such gems as amber),
waxy, dull, silky or
pearly. |
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Find it at
Howard's
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